When MTH took his first trip to China, a couple of years
before we moved here, he got off the airplane, got in a taxi, and was driven
just out into the peri-airport limbo, when his driver turned around, looked at
his passenger, and shrugged.
Apparently, he had not understood when MTH gave his destination in
English, and had thought it unwise to make this clear until he had driven far
enough to eliminate the competition.
A phone call to the hotel solved the problem, of course, but the danger
inherent in a complete lack of communication struck us both as something to be
avoided in the future, so we set about learning Chinese.
What I didn’t realize was that knowing Chinese--or knowing
only a little Chinese, which is where I find myself now--can be just as harrowing. Take my communications with the ayi, for instance.
It’s important to know that I am flummoxed by the ayi in general.
Nothing in my prior life prepared me to have a servant; it is not
something I ever once dreamed of.
This may surprise those of you who have witnessed the astonishing
disarray of any of my living quarters, but it’s consistent--I think so little
about cleaning that it never occurred to me to imagine having someone do it for
me.
But now I find myself with a woman who is in the house 25
hours a week, basically at my beck and call. I don’t do any becking or calling--I don’t know how. I just let her do her thing, and try to
gloss over any imperfections the rest of the family identifies. Sure, the Princess thinks she cooks too
much fish, the Rooster would love it if she put stuff back in the same place
all the time, and MTH has some spots--invisible to me--that he thinks could be
cleaner. But whenever I suggest
that a complaining family member directly suggest an adjustment to the ayi, their volume goes way down, and they quickly find a
reason they need to be in a different room. I sympathize with them; I cannot bring myself to make even
the smallest request--it seems so gauche or ungrateful, or just…too damn hard, without access to the verbal
softeners and diffusers I need to be comfortable.
What’s funny is that the ayi doesn’t have the same qualms.
Well, maybe she does, but she gets over them in a way I’ve become very
envious of. It started when she
realized that I was able to understand her well enough to grasp that the other
family she worked for, in the mornings, was letting her go. Would I be able to help find a new
job? That was easy enough; right
around the same time a sort-of friend of mine advertised on an online community
of ex-pat moms that I follow, and now she works for both families.
By then, though, the ayi,
who had never used a computer before, had started to understand the power of
the internet, and immediately began to--via me--harness it. This, too, was no big deal. Every once in a while she would come in
to the office as I was working on the computer, and ask me “taitai,
ni xianzai mang bu mang?” Which means, depending on translation,
“Ma’am, are you busy?” “Lady, are you currently occupied?” or “Boss lady, got a
sec?” It bothers me to not know
which one it is, because it would allow me to judge her properly. But in the end, the answer is that I am
never so busy that I haven’t clicked on and viewed least one picture of a cute
fuzzy animal on the internet, and I do think that helping another human being
out is more important than playing online scrabble, if not always more
satisfying. So I tell her I’m not,
and then she gives me the name of one of her friends who is looking for work,
and I post it on the Shanghai Mama site.
Two days ago, though, she asked if I was busy, I said no,
and she launched into a tale that my Chinese is definitely not ready for. Halfway through, she started to cry,
which made it even harder to understand, but what I got from her is this:
Once upon a time, when she was just out of high school, the ayi fell in love.
Her paramour wanted to marry her, but her grandmother said that she
could not get married, because her older cousin was not yet married, and how
would that look?
I did not understand several sentences after that, but it
appears that for some reason waiting or expediting the acquisition of a
suitable match for the cousin were not workable options. Later, both the ayi and her sometime sweetheart married different people. Whether the original beloved would have
been a good match or not is up for debate, but it turns out that the man the ayi married in his stead was not--she has shown me her
scars.
She finally got successfully divorced a few months ago, and
you could see the change in her--she appeared so much more relaxed and happy
and energized. She used that
newfound energy, apparently, to go about tracking down her high school
sweetheart. How to do that in a
country where there are only a couple hundred surnames, people rarely go by
their first name, and basically everyone is in the process of moving or has
just moved from a rural area to an urban area, is beyond me. But track him down she did, and, while
we were in the US, she went to go see him. He lives a couple of hours away by plane, and I helped her
buy her first airline ticket before we left (My performance on this, as on so
many of my proudest China accomplishments, turned out to be less than
perfect. When she came back she
showed me a bunch of pictures she’d taken from the airplane window, apparently
by leaning across two people’s seats, since I’d failed to realize that
obviously someone on their first flight EVER would prefer a window seat.).
She tells me she had a wonderful time, and she returned with
an ipad that may or may not have been a gift from her long-lost love. But she also told me he’s still
married, although, she says…well, I’m not sure what she said. I think it translates as something like
“loveless marriage,” but it might have been “she’s a witch” or even “he could
do better.” Whatever it was, it
was presented as a mitigating factor.
I asked her if he could ever move here, she said no. I asked her if she could ever move
there, she said no. I had to speak
out. “But I want you have
better man! Man without wife, man
who lives in Shanghai!” I said.
And then she began to cry for real, and she said “for me, there is no
other man. I have been waiting 30
years for this man! How could I
look for another man?” And that’s
when I wished, just for a moment, that I was stranded in a taxi in an unknown
city with a driver I couldn’t speak to.
I remember our adventures with ayi too and realizing that with the help of my improving mandarin, I could ask more but like you, she'd need more and talk more. To avoid the embarrassment of asking for things directly (like, 'could you not clean the dishes with the WC sponge' or 'hey, go ahead and chuck the dirty mop slop..we're ok to use some more water') I would spend an hour writing out directions in my kindergartener's chinese characters. Maybe you could get the kids to do that as an exercise? :-)
ReplyDeleteAs always, love your posts!
You are WAY ahead of me on cleaning--you're supposed to change the mop-water? And have more than one sponge? There is no way I could improve her work in any real way, and I'm pretty sure asking the kids to channel instructions would be insulting to her and damaging to them. My fondest hope for them is that they grow up every bit as stymied in dealing with domestic help as I am. I hope this post wasn't mistaken for my least favorite China ex-pat genre, ayi-bashing, but rather will be taken as it was meant: a comment on the stupidity and insignificance of my own issues and the inadequacy of my half-baked Chinese when faced with real problems.
DeleteTotally agree with you that there is a lot of ayi bashing in China expat blogs. We still love our ayi and when we visit SH, we love to see her as well. I just smiled with nostalgia, remembering my encounters with our ayi.
DeleteLove reading your posts, Shannon. How blessed I am to have you in my life. Your stories keep me laughing.
ReplyDelete